Sourdough pizza dough takes more time than a commercial yeast version — but the results are different in a way that’s hard to go back from. The crust is chewier, more complex in flavor, and has a structure that holds up well under toppings without going limp. The 48-hour cold ferment is the key. That time is doing the work so you don’t have to.
This is the recipe I make most often when I have a pizza night planned. The hands-on time is less than 30 minutes spread over two days. The rest is patience.
Why Use Sourdough for Pizza?
Flavor
Commercial yeast (instant or active dry) ferments quickly and produces CO₂ efficiently, but it doesn’t build the same flavor complexity as a long ferment. Sourdough starters contain wild yeast and lactic acid bacteria — the bacteria produce organic acids (lactic and acetic) during fermentation that give the dough a subtle tang and depth. At 48 hours, the flavor is noticeably more complex than a same-day commercial yeast dough.
Texture
Long fermentation breaks down the dough’s structure in ways that short fermentation doesn’t. Enzymes called proteases work on the gluten proteins during the cold retard, making the final dough more extensible and the crumb more open. The result: a crust that stretches easily during shaping, opens dramatically in the oven, and has a chewy, irregular crumb rather than a uniform, bread-like texture.
Digestibility
Anecdotally (and with some scientific backing), long-fermented sourdough is better tolerated by people who find regular yeast dough difficult. The bacteria consume some of the sugars and break down some of the gluten structure during the long ferment. This isn’t a medical claim, but it’s worth knowing if you or someone you cook for finds pizza heavy or hard on the stomach.
Ingredients
Makes 4 pizza dough balls, ~280g each (12-inch pizzas)
- 1000g bread flour (or Italian 00 flour — see notes)
- 650g cold water, divided into 600g + 50g
- 200g active sourdough starter (100% hydration, fed 6–8 hours before use)
- 20g fine sea salt
- Semolina or bread flour for dusting during shaping
Ingredient Notes
Flour: Bread flour (12–14% protein) produces a more structured dough with better gluten development. Italian 00 flour produces a more delicate, silkier dough that’s characteristic of Neapolitan pizza. Both work; try both and decide which result you prefer. I use bread flour for outdoor oven baking and 00 for home oven sessions.
Starter: Use an active, well-maintained starter. “Active” means it has been fed within 6–8 hours and is currently at or near peak rise — domed at the top, bubbly throughout, with a lively yeast smell rather than a harsh acidic smell. If your starter smells like nail polish remover, it needs several feedings before it’s ready for pizza dough.
Water temperature: Cold water slows the fermentation timeline during bulk ferment and gives you more control. In summer or a warm kitchen, this is especially important.
Salt: Fine sea salt dissolves more evenly than coarse salt. Kosher salt works but may need an extra minute to incorporate fully.
Equipment
- Kitchen scale (required — do not use volume measurements)
- Large mixing bowl
- Dough scraper (bench scraper)
- 4 individual containers with lids (deli containers or small bowls with plastic wrap)
- Pizza stone or baking steel
- Pizza peel
Instructions
Day 1
Step 1: Feed Your Starter (6–8 Hours Before Mixing)
Feed your starter at a 1:1:1 ratio by weight (starter:flour:water). Cover loosely and let rise at room temperature. It should roughly double in size and dome at the top. Use it when it’s at or just past its peak — active and bubbly throughout.
If you’re not sure your starter is active enough, do the float test: drop a small piece into a glass of water. If it floats, it has enough gas development for leavening. If it sinks, give it another feed and more time.
Step 2: Autolyse (45–60 Minutes)
In a large bowl, combine:
– 1000g flour
– 600g cold water
Mix until no dry flour remains. The mixture will be shaggy and rough. Cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for 45–60 minutes.
Why autolyse? This rest period allows the flour to fully hydrate and begin gluten development without any mechanical mixing. By the time you add the starter and salt, the gluten is already partially developed. You’ll notice the dough is smoother and more extensible after the autolyse than it was right after mixing.
Step 3: Add the Starter
Add 200g active sourdough starter directly to the autolysed dough.
Using wet hands, work the starter into the dough. The easiest method: use the “pinch and fold” technique — pinch through the dough with your fingers to break up the starter, then fold the dough over itself repeatedly. Alternate between pinching and folding for 3–4 minutes until the starter is fully incorporated and the dough feels cohesive.
The dough will feel sticky and loose at this stage. That’s normal.
Step 4: Add Salt
Dissolve 20g salt in the remaining 50g water. This small amount of water helps the salt disperse evenly rather than sitting in concentrated pockets.
Pour the salt water over the dough. Incorporate using the same pinch-and-fold method for 2–3 minutes until fully combined. The dough will initially feel slippery as the salt softens the gluten, then firm up as you work it.
Cover the bowl.
Step 5: Bulk Fermentation with Coil Folds (4–6 Hours)
Leave the dough at room temperature (ideally 68–72°F). Over the next 2–3 hours, perform 4–6 sets of coil folds, spaced 30 minutes apart.
How to do a coil fold:
1. Wet your hands.
2. Reach under the dough and lift the center straight up — the dough will stretch and fall on either side.
3. Fold it back over itself.
4. Rotate the bowl 90 degrees. Repeat 3 more times (4 lifts per set).
After the folding sets, leave the dough undisturbed for the remainder of the bulk ferment. Total bulk time: 4–6 hours at 70°F. The dough is ready when:
– It has increased in volume by 30–50% (not doubled — that would be over-fermented)
– The surface looks slightly domed and has visible bubbles
– It feels airy and jiggly when you shake the bowl
– A small piece stretched between your fingers is extensible and translucent (“windowpane”)
Temperature note: Bulk ferment time varies significantly with temperature. At 65°F, allow 6–8 hours. At 75°F, bulk may complete in 3–4 hours. Watch the dough, not the clock.
Step 6: Divide and Pre-Shape
Turn the dough out onto an unfloured surface. Use a dough scraper to divide into 4 equal portions (roughly 270–280g each — weigh them if precision matters to you).
Pre-shape each portion: using the bench scraper in one hand and your other hand palm-down on the dough, drag each ball toward you in a circular motion. The friction against the work surface creates surface tension and tightens the ball. Work quickly and with light pressure — you want tension on the surface without degassing the interior.
Place each ball into a lightly oiled individual container. Cover tightly.
Step 7: Cold Fermentation (24–48 Hours)
Refrigerate immediately. The cold slows fermentation dramatically — the dough will continue to develop slowly in the fridge over the next 24–48 hours.
24 hours: Good results. Mild tang, good structure, manageable for shaping.
36 hours: Better flavor development. Noticeably more complex.
48 hours: Best results in this recipe. Deep flavor, excellent extensibility, open crumb. Don’t go much beyond 48 hours — the dough starts to over-ferment and becomes fragile and overly acidic.
Day 2 (or Day 3)
Step 8: Final Proof (2–3 Hours Before Baking)
Remove dough balls from the refrigerator at least 2 hours before you plan to bake. Leave them covered at room temperature.
Cold dough is stiff and tears easily — shaping is miserable. The final proof lets the gluten relax and the dough warm to a pliable, extensible state. After 2 hours at room temperature (depending on ambient temp), the balls should feel soft, slightly puffy, and relaxed when you press a floured finger into the surface.
If the dough still springs back quickly after the poke test, it needs more time.
Step 9: Shape
Generously flour your work surface with semolina or bread flour (semolina is better — the round granules prevent sticking more effectively than flour).
Place a dough ball onto the floured surface. Begin shaping by pressing from the center outward with your fingertips, leaving a 1-inch border around the edge untouched — this becomes your cornicione (crust). Work in a circular motion, pressing and stretching the interior while letting the outer ring puff.
Once the dough is 8–10 inches, pick it up and drape it over your knuckles. Stretch it by gently spreading your hands apart, rotating as you go, until it reaches 12 inches. Avoid the edges — don’t flatten the cornicione.
Transfer to a well-floured peel or parchment paper.
Step 10: Top and Bake
Top immediately after shaping — do not let a dressed pizza sit on the peel.
Home oven: Preheat oven to 550°F (or as high as it goes) with a pizza stone or baking steel on the upper-middle rack for at least 60 minutes. Bake for 7–10 minutes until the crust is spotted and charred at the edges. If you have a broiler, blast it under the broiler for the final 1–2 minutes.
Outdoor pizza oven: Preheat to 850–950°F. Bake 60–90 seconds, rotating every 20 seconds with a turning peel.
Troubleshooting
Dough is too sticky to shape after final proof:
It may have proofed too long at room temperature. Refrigerate for 20 minutes to tighten, then try again.
Crust isn’t getting charred spots:
Your oven or stone isn’t hot enough, or your starter wasn’t active enough during fermentation. Ensure stone preheats for a full hour minimum.
Dough tears during shaping:
It’s not relaxed enough — bench rest it for 15–20 more minutes, then try again. If it keeps tearing, the gluten is tight from under-fermentation.
Too sour:
Reduce cold ferment time to 24 hours, or use a smaller proportion of starter (try 150g instead of 200g) to slow the acid development.
Not sour enough:
Extend cold ferment to 48 hours, or let the dough do the final proof at room temperature rather than the fridge.
Storing Leftover Dough
Dough balls can be refrigerated for up to 5 days total from the time they were shaped. After 48 hours, check daily — the dough will continue fermenting slowly and become more extensible and acidic. Many bakers find day 3 or day 4 dough especially good.
To freeze: place shaped dough balls in oiled bags and freeze after the cold ferment. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator, then follow the final proof step as normal.
Make It Your Own
This base recipe is a 65% hydration dough — a solid starting point. Once you’ve made it successfully, consider these variations:
- Higher hydration: Increase to 70–72% for a more open crumb. Reduce by 50g water initially until you’re comfortable with the wetter dough.
- Whole wheat blend: Replace 100–200g of the bread flour with whole wheat. Increase water by 20–30g. Expect nuttier flavor and denser crumb.
- Honey: Add 10–15g honey during the salt addition for subtle sweetness and better browning.
Julius makes this recipe weekly. Results tested in both a home oven and Ooni Karu 16 outdoor oven.
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See also: Sourdough Pizza Dough Recipe
